Dreaming of bouncy, permanent curls that require minimal daily styling? While completely altering your natural hair structure permanently isn’t possible, advancements in chemical processes offer ways to achieve long-lasting curls. This comprehensive guide explores the methods available, the science behind them, and crucial considerations before you commit.
Understanding Hair Structure and Perming
Hair, at its core, is protein – specifically keratin. The shape of your hair, whether straight, wavy, or curly, depends on the arrangement of keratin molecules held together by chemical bonds. These bonds, primarily disulfide bonds, determine the hair’s natural form. Perming fundamentally involves breaking and reforming these disulfide bonds to create a new curl pattern.
The Science Behind Perms
The perming process typically involves two key steps: reduction and oxidation. First, a reducing agent, usually ammonium thioglycolate, is applied to the hair. This chemical breaks the disulfide bonds, allowing the hair to become pliable and reshaped around curlers or rods.
Next, an oxidizing agent, commonly hydrogen peroxide (the neutralizer), is applied. This chemical reforms the disulfide bonds, effectively “setting” the hair into its new curly shape. The strength and type of chemicals used determine the tightness and longevity of the curls. The size and type of rods used will also impact the size and shape of the curls.
Types of Perms: Choosing the Right Option
Not all perms are created equal. Different types of perms cater to various hair types and desired curl patterns. Selecting the appropriate perm is crucial for achieving the desired look and minimizing damage.
Acid Perms: These perms have a lower pH and are generally considered gentler than alkaline perms. They are suitable for delicate or color-treated hair, producing softer, more natural-looking curls. Acid perms typically require heat to process fully.
Alkaline Perms: Also known as cold waves, alkaline perms have a higher pH and process faster than acid perms. They are suitable for normal or resistant hair and create tighter, more defined curls. No external heat source is required.
Exothermic Perms: These perms create their own heat through a chemical reaction. They provide consistent results and are suitable for various hair types, but it’s essential to monitor the heat to avoid damage.
Digital Perms (or Hot Perms): Popular in Asia, digital perms use heat and a digital machine to control the temperature and processing time. They create soft, natural-looking curls that are easier to manage and style. Digital perms are typically more expensive than traditional perms.
Spiral Perms: Ideal for creating long, cascading curls, spiral perms involve wrapping the hair around long, thin rods in a spiral pattern. The final look offers volume and defined curls.
Body Wave Perms: Designed to add volume and slight waves rather than tight curls, body wave perms use larger rods to create a looser, more natural look.
Multi-Textured Perms: Use different sized rods for a more natural, less uniform, curly appearance.
Preparing Your Hair for a Perm
Preparation is paramount for a successful and healthy perm. Assess your hair’s condition, take steps to strengthen it, and choose a reputable stylist experienced in perming.
Hair Assessment and Consultation
Before any chemicals touch your hair, a thorough assessment is necessary. Your stylist should evaluate your hair’s texture, density, porosity, and overall health. They should also discuss your hair history, including previous chemical treatments, coloring, and styling habits. This consultation helps determine the appropriate perm type and processing time for your hair.
Strengthening and Repairing Your Hair
Perming can be damaging, especially to already compromised hair. Weeks leading up to your perm, focus on strengthening and repairing your hair. Use deep conditioning treatments, protein masks, and avoid heat styling. Healthy hair is more resilient and better able to withstand the chemical process.
Choosing the Right Stylist
Selecting a skilled and experienced stylist is arguably the most critical factor for a successful perm. Look for a stylist who specializes in perms and has a portfolio showcasing their work. Read reviews, ask for recommendations, and schedule a consultation to discuss your goals and concerns. Don’t be afraid to ask about their experience with different perm types and their approach to protecting hair health.
The Perming Process: What to Expect
Understanding the steps involved in the perming process can alleviate anxiety and help you communicate effectively with your stylist.
Step-by-Step Procedure
The perming process typically involves these steps:
- Hair is washed and towel-dried.
- Hair is sectioned and wrapped around perm rods or curlers.
- Perm solution (reducing agent) is applied to saturate the hair on the rods.
- The solution processes for a specific time, monitored by the stylist.
- The hair is rinsed thoroughly with water.
- The neutralizer (oxidizing agent) is applied to reform the disulfide bonds.
- The neutralizer processes for a specific time.
- The rods are carefully removed.
- The hair is rinsed again.
- A final conditioning treatment is applied.
Timing and Monitoring
The processing time is crucial for achieving the desired curl and minimizing damage. The stylist should carefully monitor the hair throughout the process, checking for elasticity and curl formation. Over-processing can lead to breakage and damage, while under-processing can result in weak or inconsistent curls.
Potential Discomfort and Sensations
You may experience a slight burning or tingling sensation on your scalp during the perming process. This is normal, but it’s essential to communicate any discomfort to your stylist. Severe burning or irritation should be addressed immediately. The smell of the perming solution can also be strong.
Caring for Your Permed Hair
Proper aftercare is crucial for maintaining the health and longevity of your permed curls.
The First 48-72 Hours: The Golden Rule
Avoid washing your hair for at least 48-72 hours after getting a perm. This allows the disulfide bonds to fully set and prevents the curls from loosening. Resist the urge to style or manipulate your hair during this critical period.
Choosing the Right Products
Use shampoos and conditioners specifically formulated for permed or chemically treated hair. These products are typically sulfate-free and contain moisturizing ingredients to hydrate and protect your curls. Avoid products containing alcohol, which can dry out your hair.
Hydration and Deep Conditioning
Permed hair tends to be drier than natural hair, so hydration is essential. Use deep conditioning treatments regularly to replenish moisture and prevent breakage. Consider using leave-in conditioners or curl creams to define and moisturize your curls.
Styling Techniques and Tools
When styling your permed hair, use wide-tooth combs or your fingers to detangle gently. Avoid harsh brushing, which can disrupt the curl pattern. Air-drying is the gentlest option, but if you use a hairdryer, use a diffuser attachment on a low heat setting. Minimize heat styling to prevent damage.
Protecting Your Hair While Sleeping
Sleeping on a silk or satin pillowcase can help reduce friction and prevent frizz. You can also pineapple your hair (gather it loosely on top of your head) or use a satin bonnet to protect your curls overnight.
Addressing Potential Problems
Even with careful preparation and execution, problems can sometimes arise with permed hair. Knowing how to address these issues can help maintain the health and appearance of your curls.
Frizz and Dryness
Frizz and dryness are common concerns with permed hair. Combat these issues with hydrating products, deep conditioning treatments, and gentle styling techniques. Avoid over-washing your hair, as this can strip away natural oils.
Uneven Curls
Uneven curls can result from inconsistent wrapping, uneven application of the perm solution, or variations in hair porosity. Your stylist may be able to correct uneven curls with a touch-up perm, focusing on the areas that need more curl definition.
Hair Breakage and Damage
Hair breakage and damage can occur from over-processing, using harsh chemicals, or neglecting proper aftercare. If you experience significant breakage, consult with your stylist about repair treatments and strategies for strengthening your hair. Protein treatments can help rebuild the hair shaft, while moisturizing treatments can restore hydration.
Scalp Irritation
Scalp irritation is a common reaction to perm chemicals. Over-the-counter treatments and time are usually sufficient. However, severe or long-lasting cases should be assessed by a doctor to determine the best course of action.
What are the different methods to get permanent curly hair?
There are primarily two ways to achieve permanent curls: a traditional perm using chemicals or a digital perm (also known as a Korean perm). A traditional perm uses alkaline chemicals to break down and reform the hair’s bonds around a rod or roller, creating the desired curl pattern. The specific chemicals used, the size of the rods, and the wrapping technique all contribute to the final look.
A digital perm, on the other hand, uses heat in conjunction with chemicals to create looser, more natural-looking waves or curls. The hair is first treated with chemicals, then wrapped around heated rods connected to a computer system that controls the temperature. This method allows for more control over the curl formation, often resulting in softer, bouncier curls than a traditional perm.
How long does a permanent curl treatment typically last?
The longevity of a permanent curl treatment depends on several factors, including your hair’s growth rate, the type of perm you get, and how well you maintain it. Generally, a perm can last anywhere from 3 to 6 months, sometimes even longer. As your hair grows out, the new hair will be straight, creating a noticeable contrast between the permed and unpermed sections.
The curl pattern will also gradually loosen over time, regardless of growth. Proper hair care, such as using sulfate-free shampoos and conditioners, deep conditioning regularly, and avoiding excessive heat styling, can significantly extend the lifespan of your perm and help maintain the curl definition. Touch-ups may be required to perm the new growth and blend it with the existing curls.
What hair types are best suited for permanent curls?
Generally, healthy, virgin hair (hair that hasn’t been previously chemically treated) is the best candidate for a permanent curl. This is because the chemicals used in perms can be harsh, and already damaged hair is more susceptible to breakage and further damage. Fine to medium hair textures often hold perms well, as they are more easily molded into a new curl pattern.
However, it is possible to perm color-treated hair, although extra precautions are necessary. The hair must be strong enough to withstand the additional chemical processing. A strand test performed by a professional stylist is crucial to determine if your hair can handle the perm and to predict the potential outcome. Avoid perming severely damaged, bleached, or heavily processed hair.
What are the risks associated with getting permanent curls?
The primary risk associated with getting permanent curls is hair damage. The chemicals used in perms can weaken the hair shaft, leading to dryness, frizz, breakage, and split ends. Over-processing the hair can even cause severe damage, requiring extensive treatments or, in extreme cases, cutting off the affected sections.
Scalp irritation and allergic reactions are also potential risks. The chemicals can irritate the scalp, causing redness, itching, or even burns. It’s crucial to inform your stylist of any allergies or sensitivities you have prior to the treatment. A patch test can be performed to check for any adverse reactions before applying the perm solution to your entire head.
How do I care for my hair after getting a perm?
Proper aftercare is essential for maintaining the health and longevity of your perm. Avoid washing your hair for at least 48-72 hours after the perm to allow the curls to set properly. Use a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner specifically designed for permed or curly hair, as these products are gentler and help retain moisture.
Deep conditioning treatments are crucial for replenishing moisture and preventing dryness. Use a deep conditioner or hair mask at least once a week. Avoid excessive heat styling, such as blow-drying or using curling irons, as heat can damage the permed hair. When you do use heat, apply a heat protectant spray. Use a wide-tooth comb to detangle your hair gently to prevent breakage.
How do I choose the right perm type and curl size?
Choosing the right perm type and curl size depends on your hair length, texture, and desired look. Consult with a professional stylist who can assess your hair and recommend the best option for you. A spiral perm creates tight, bouncy curls, while a body wave perm creates looser, more natural-looking waves.
Consider the size of the rods used in the perm. Smaller rods will create tighter curls, while larger rods will create looser waves. It’s important to choose a curl size that complements your face shape and hair length. Also, discuss your lifestyle and maintenance routine with your stylist to ensure the perm you choose is manageable for you.
Can permanent curls be reversed?
Technically, permanent curls cannot be fully reversed to your original hair texture. The chemical process permanently alters the hair’s structure. However, there are ways to soften or loosen the curls, or to blend the permed hair with new growth.
You can try using deep conditioning treatments and moisturizing hair masks to hydrate the hair and loosen the curl pattern slightly. As your hair grows out, you can gradually trim off the permed sections. Chemical relaxers or straightening treatments are another option, but they can cause significant damage, especially when applied to already permed hair. Consult a professional stylist for advice on the safest and most effective way to manage your permed hair if you are unhappy with the results.