Ostby and Barton rings, renowned for their intricate designs and enduring quality, hold a special place in jewelry history. They are more than just adornments; they are tangible links to the past, crafted by a company that met a tragic end in the Titanic disaster. Dating an Ostby Barton ring requires careful observation and a deep understanding of the company’s history and manufacturing practices. This guide will provide you with the knowledge to unlock the secrets hidden within your cherished piece, helping you accurately estimate its age and appreciate its historical significance.
Unraveling the History of Ostby and Barton
Engraving the past means understanding the story behind the manufacturer. Engelhart Cornelius Ostby, a Norwegian immigrant, and Nathan B. Barton, an American businessman, founded the Ostby & Barton Company in Providence, Rhode Island, in 1879. Ostby, a master jeweler, contributed his artistic vision and technical expertise, while Barton provided the business acumen necessary for success.
The company rapidly grew, becoming one of the largest manufacturers of rings in the United States. Their designs were diverse, encompassing a wide range of styles from Victorian elegance to Art Deco modernity. Tragically, Ostby perished in the sinking of the Titanic in 1912, a poignant event that adds a layer of intrigue and historical significance to every Ostby Barton ring. The company continued to operate until the 1950s, leaving behind a legacy of exquisite jewelry that is now highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts.
Key Factors Influencing the Value and Dating
Several key factors can influence the value and dating of an Ostby Barton ring. These include the materials used, the complexity of the design, the presence of specific hallmarks, and the overall condition of the piece.
Metal Type: Gold, gold-filled, and silver were all used, and their presence can narrow down the production period.
Gemstones: The types of gemstones (real or simulated) and their cuts are important clues.
Hallmarks: These are the most important factor. They indicate the metal content and sometimes even a style or series number.
Design Motifs: Recurring design elements like filigree, geometric shapes, or floral patterns were popular during specific eras.
Condition: The condition of the ring can affect its value, but even wear and tear can provide clues about its history.
Deciphering the Hallmarks: Your Ring’s Secret Code
Hallmarks are the most crucial element in dating your Ostby Barton ring. These small markings, usually located inside the band, provide valuable information about the metal content, the manufacturer, and sometimes even the year of production or a specific style number.
Identifying the Ostby Barton Mark
The most common hallmark is the “OB” mark, often accompanied by an arrow piercing the letters. This mark is a clear indicator that the ring was manufactured by the Ostby & Barton Company. However, the presence of this mark alone is not enough to determine the ring’s exact age.
Understanding Metal Content Marks
In addition to the “OB” mark, you’ll likely find marks indicating the metal content. These marks can include:
- 10K, 14K, 18K: Indicate solid gold content (10 parts gold out of 24, 14 parts gold out of 24, and 18 parts gold out of 24, respectively).
- Gold Filled: Indicates that a layer of gold has been mechanically bonded to a base metal. This mark will usually be followed by a fraction (e.g., 1/10 12K Gold Filled), indicating the proportion of gold content.
- Sterling: Indicates that the ring is made of sterling silver (92.5% silver).
The presence or absence of these marks, along with their specific format, can help narrow down the production period. For example, certain gold-filled markings were more common during specific decades.
Decoding Style or Series Numbers
Some Ostby Barton rings feature style or series numbers alongside the manufacturer and metal content marks. While there is no comprehensive database that directly correlates these numbers with specific dates, they can sometimes be used in conjunction with other clues to estimate the ring’s age. Researching similar rings with the same or similar style numbers can provide valuable insights. Examining online auction sites, antique jewelry forums, and collector communities can be helpful in this process.
Analyzing the Ring’s Design and Style
The design and style of your Ostby Barton ring can offer significant clues about its age. The company produced a wide variety of designs, reflecting the prevailing trends of each era. By understanding these trends, you can narrow down the possible production period for your ring.
Victorian Era (1879-1901)
Rings from the Victorian era often feature elaborate designs, incorporating floral motifs, intricate filigree work, and gemstones such as garnets, pearls, and amethysts. Sentimental jewelry, such as rings with hidden compartments or inscribed messages, were also popular during this period.
Edwardian Era (1901-1910)
Edwardian rings are characterized by their delicate and feminine designs. Platinum and white gold began to gain popularity during this era, and rings often feature diamonds, pearls, and other gemstones set in intricate openwork settings.
Art Nouveau Era (1890-1910)
Art Nouveau jewelry is distinguished by its flowing lines, organic shapes, and nature-inspired motifs. Rings from this period often feature depictions of flowers, leaves, insects, and mythical creatures.
Art Deco Era (1920-1935)
Art Deco rings are characterized by their geometric shapes, bold colors, and streamlined designs. Platinum and white gold were commonly used, and rings often feature diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, and rubies.
Post-World War II Era (1945-1950s)
Following the war, jewelry designs became simpler and more practical. Gold was the most popular metal, and rings often feature smaller gemstones or synthetic stones. The focus was on creating affordable and wearable jewelry.
Examining Gemstones and Settings
The gemstones used in your Ostby Barton ring and the way they are set can provide additional clues about its age.
Identifying Gemstone Types
The types of gemstones used in jewelry have varied over time. Certain gemstones, such as garnets and amethysts, were more popular during the Victorian era, while others, such as sapphires and emeralds, gained popularity during the Art Deco era. The use of synthetic gemstones also became more common in the mid-20th century.
Analyzing Gemstone Cuts
The cut of a gemstone can also indicate its age. For example, older rings may feature rose-cut diamonds, while later rings may feature round brilliant-cut diamonds. The types of gemstone cuts have evolved over time, and understanding these changes can help you date your ring.
Assessing Setting Styles
The way a gemstone is set into a ring can also provide clues about its age. Common setting styles include prong settings, bezel settings, and channel settings. The prevalence of different setting styles has varied over time, and understanding these trends can help you date your ring.
Consulting with Experts and Resources
While this guide provides a comprehensive overview of how to date an Ostby Barton ring, consulting with experts and utilizing available resources can further enhance your understanding and accuracy.
Seeking Professional Appraisal
A professional jewelry appraiser can provide a detailed assessment of your ring, including its age, materials, and value. Appraisers have the expertise and tools necessary to examine your ring closely and provide an informed opinion.
Utilizing Online Resources
Numerous online resources are available to help you research and identify Ostby Barton rings. Online auction sites, antique jewelry forums, and collector communities can provide valuable information and insights. Websites dedicated to antique jewelry often feature detailed information about hallmarks, design styles, and historical trends.
Connecting with Collectors and Enthusiasts
Connecting with other collectors and enthusiasts can provide valuable perspectives and insights. Sharing information and comparing notes can help you learn more about Ostby Barton rings and accurately date your piece.
Putting it All Together: A Step-by-Step Dating Process
Dating an Ostby Barton ring is a process of careful observation, research, and deduction. By combining the information gleaned from the hallmarks, design, gemstones, and settings, you can arrive at a reasonable estimate of your ring’s age.
Step 1: Examine the Hallmarks: Locate and carefully examine all hallmarks on the ring. Identify the “OB” mark and any metal content marks. Note the presence of any style or series numbers.
Step 2: Analyze the Design and Style: Assess the overall design and style of the ring. Compare it to design trends from different eras. Identify any recurring motifs or design elements.
Step 3: Evaluate Gemstones and Settings: Identify the types of gemstones used and their cuts. Analyze the setting style and compare it to setting styles from different eras.
Step 4: Conduct Research: Utilize online resources, consult with experts, and connect with collectors to gather additional information. Research similar rings and compare your findings.
Step 5: Draw Conclusions: Based on your observations and research, draw conclusions about the ring’s age. Consider all available evidence and be prepared to revise your estimate as you gather more information.
By following these steps, you can unlock the secrets hidden within your Ostby Barton ring and gain a deeper appreciation for its history and significance. Remember that dating antique jewelry is not an exact science, but with careful observation and research, you can arrive at a reasonable estimate and cherish your piece for generations to come.
What are the key characteristics to look for when identifying an Ostby Barton ring?
Ostby Barton rings are primarily identified by the distinctive “O-B” mark within a ring or cartouche. This mark can appear in various forms, sometimes accompanied by a design number and the metal content (e.g., 10K, 14K, Sterling). Beyond the mark, look for specific design elements that were popular during the late 19th and early 20th centuries, such as intricate filigree work, gemstones like garnet, amethyst, or pearls, and generally ornate settings indicative of Victorian or Art Deco styles.
The overall construction and style of the ring can also provide clues. Ostby Barton often used high-quality metals and craftsmanship, resulting in durable and well-made pieces. Observe the setting techniques, the gemstone cuts, and the general aesthetics of the ring; these details can align with the manufacturing period of the Ostby Barton company, giving further support to your identification.
How can the metal markings on an Ostby Barton ring help in dating it?
Metal markings on Ostby Barton rings, such as 10K, 14K, or Sterling, provide crucial information about the ring’s manufacturing period. The use of specific karat values became more standardized during particular eras. For example, while gold-filled jewelry was common, solid gold markings indicate a higher value and potentially a later production date after the gold standard was established.
Also, pay attention to any accompanying marks alongside the metal content. The absence of a metal mark might suggest an earlier piece that predates standardized marking practices, though this is less common for Ostby Barton. Conversely, the presence of a specific hallmark along with the metal content can allow you to cross-reference it with historical records to pinpoint a more accurate date range for when the ring was manufactured.
What role do the gemstones in an Ostby Barton ring play in determining its age?
The types of gemstones used in an Ostby Barton ring can offer valuable insights into its age. Certain gemstones, like garnet, amethyst, and pearl, were exceptionally popular during specific periods such as the Victorian era and Art Deco eras. The cut of the stones is also indicative, with older rings likely to feature rose cuts or old mine cuts, while later rings might showcase more modern cuts.
Additionally, the setting style of the gemstone within the ring can reflect the jewelry-making techniques that were prevalent during certain periods. For instance, bezel settings are generally older than prong settings. The gemstone’s condition and any evidence of wear can also support a general age estimation, although this is a less precise method compared to examining the metal and style.
Are there specific design motifs or styles that are characteristic of certain periods of Ostby Barton’s production?
Ostby Barton’s designs evolved through different stylistic periods. Rings from the Victorian era (late 19th century) often feature floral motifs, seed pearls, and intricate filigree work. As the Art Nouveau period emerged, designs became more flowing and organic, sometimes incorporating enameled details. The Art Deco era brought geometric shapes, bolder gemstones, and a more streamlined aesthetic.
By carefully examining the design motifs, you can often narrow down the time frame in which your Ostby Barton ring was likely produced. Consulting vintage jewelry catalogues and style guides can provide additional context and help you compare your ring to known designs from different periods, making the dating process more accurate.
How does the condition of an Ostby Barton ring affect its value and dating?
While the condition of an Ostby Barton ring doesn’t directly dictate its age, it influences its value and can provide clues about its history. A ring in pristine condition might suggest it was well-cared-for or possibly a later reproduction. Conversely, significant wear, such as worn-down engravings or damaged settings, indicates a longer period of use and potential exposure to the elements.
However, heavy wear doesn’t automatically make a ring older or more valuable. Rarity and desirability of the design are more significant factors in determining value. Light wear and patina are often seen as desirable in antique jewelry, adding to its character and authenticity. Analyzing the type and extent of wear can help you understand the ring’s journey and potentially corroborate other dating methods.
Where can I find reliable resources to research and identify my Ostby Barton ring?
Several resources can aid in researching and identifying your Ostby Barton ring. Online antique jewelry databases, such as those maintained by auction houses like Christie’s or Sotheby’s, and reputable vintage jewelry websites, offer extensive archives of similar pieces that you can compare. These databases often include details on hallmarks, materials, and design styles, providing valuable contextual information.
Additionally, books on antique and vintage jewelry, particularly those specializing in American jewelry manufacturers, can offer insights into Ostby Barton’s history and design evolution. Local libraries and historical societies might also hold relevant catalogues or records related to the company. Consulting with a qualified antique jewelry appraiser can provide an expert opinion and a professional assessment of your ring’s authenticity and age.
What is the significance of the Ostby Barton company and its connection to the Titanic?
The Ostby Barton company holds a poignant historical significance due to the tragic fate of Engelhart Cornelius Ostby, one of its founders, who perished on the Titanic in 1912. Ostby was a first-class passenger returning from a trip to Europe to source new designs and gemstones. His death significantly impacted the company, though it continued operating for several decades afterward.
Knowing Ostby’s connection to the Titanic adds a layer of historical and emotional value to Ostby Barton jewelry. Rings dating from before 1912 have a direct link to Ostby himself, increasing their collectibility. While this connection doesn’t directly help date a specific ring, it provides a compelling narrative and highlights the company’s legacy within the context of a major historical event.